Horrorshow Arcade
Building the control panel
The control panel was one of the easier parts of the build. The original idea was to have a removable box with a removable top so the box and the controls could be changed if I ever planned to do any other controls like steering wheel. This was quickly abandoned because the box itself could not be done both easily removable and sturdy. So now only the top of the control panel is easily removable and can be changed if I ever have the desire to fiddle with it. This choice also makes maintenance easier.
The panel is 19mm MDF with 2mm grinded off from the sides, so that when a 2mm plexiglass sits on top of it, it will not get too high for the T-molding. The removed 2mm is from the bottom and from the area outside of the box. It also made a nice guide where the panel should be when on top of the box.
The cutting of the plexiglass is a hard job. It breaks really easy, so be careful with it. I found that a high RPM Dremel hand drill was great for the job. It cut through the plexiglass like butter. I just put the plexi on top of the panel with the drilled holes for the buttons and made the same holes with the Dremel.
I purchased my buttons from Gremlin Solutions (other options include ArcadeShop.de in Germany and Suzo-Happ in US). They had a good selection and being inside of EU, I got everything shipped toll-free. The only problem I had with them was due to them having an enormous amounts of orders in at the moment, they accidentally forgot to put my joysticks in the box. One phone call and it was sorted out. I even got some extra buttons and leds because of the mishap.
One thing I found was that the Happ joysticks come with a nice guide of the parts, but not with a guide how to install it to the panel. So I had to improvise and grind the area of the joystick hub to the panel and the cut the holes for the parts that come to the bottom of the panel. This way it is very sturdy and will not move loosen even with the hardest of uses. The artwork is on top of the hub, and the plexi on top of the artwork. This will hide the controllers all together and made it look like that the way I used was the way it was meant to be done.
The wiring in the picture has been improved since the assembly with scotch tape. Now the wires are firmly attached with wire holders. The first test with the control panel revealed that even though I had though to mirror left and right when working on the bottom of the panel, I had forgotten that the joystics need every direction mirrored. Sure the top of the stick goes left, but the bottom goes right.
The locking mechanism of the panel is also a clever idea from my step father. The panel is held in place with four small angle irons, two on the back and two on the front. The ones in the back have slots carved in the back of the box, so that it has only one place to go. The ones in the front have holes cut in the middle of the box's front panel. Now when I put the panel on the box, I have to first put the front irons to the holes, and then slide the back irons to their slots. The back is then screwed to place from behind, and the front from the front. The two screws in the front are then covered with small black plastic plates that hide the holes.
Last updated 11.6.2009.